How to explore Colorado's rugged southwestern playground

The Thirst Colorado travel guide to the San Juans and beyond

By Malena Larsen

The San Juan Mountain Range stretches from the Lake City area to the Chama River in New Mexico. This range formed through volcanic activity less than 30 million years ago—in geology standards, that’s pretty recent! Due to the range’s “youth,” rock type, and volcanic origins, these peaks appear more jagged than other mountain ranges in the state. 

Photo courtesy of The Nugget Mountain Bar near Purgatory Ski Resort

From the aggressive jutting peaks of Jagged Mountain to the tabletop-esque Uncompahgre Peak, each bit of topography in this area makes its own mark against the Colorado sky. Within the unique mountains, the area also offers a plethora of experiences for visitors. Get ready to travel along scenic highways, explore ghost towns and thriving mountain communities, conquer mountains, and get a glimpse of Indigenous history. 

Drive The Million Dollar Highway 

This highway was reported to cost a million dollars per mile to build, which is where it gets its name. This 25-mile scenic byway winds through the San Juan Mountains between Ouray and Silverton. 

The Million Dollar Highway has no shortage of views, but if you’d like to ogle at the scenery, consider using one of the many pull-offs. There are no guardrails and it’s crucial to pay close attention when traveling on this road.

Visit The Nugget Mountain Bar 

This rustic mountain bar is just down the road from the Purgatory Ski Resort north of Durango. This makes it a perfect après-ski spot during the colder months. However, The Nugget Mountain Bar is a good time year-round. Have a local brew at the bar while enjoying some live music. And if you’re hungry, there’s a permanent food truck serving fries, sliders, salads and more. 

The 14 Fourteeners of the
San Juan Mountain Range
Uncompahgre Peak — 14,308’ 
Mount Wilson — 14,252’ 
El Diente Peak — 14,165’ 
Mount Sneffels — 14,157’
Mount Eolus — 14,090’
Windom Peak — 14,088’
Sunlight Peak — 14,065’
Handies Peak — 14,058’
North Eolus — 14,045 ‘
Redcloud Peak — 14,041’
Wilson Peak — 14,023’ 
Wetterhorn Peak — 14,021’
San Luis Peak — 14,022’
Sunshine Peak — 14,007’

Hike a 14er  

The San Juan Mountain Range has 14 peaks above 14,000 feet, ranging from beginner to expert terrain. So, before you head out to tackle one of these San Juan beasts, do some research and prepare adequately. 

Ensure you know the risk level of your 14er approach and that you’re in appropriate physical condition to tackle it. Pack all necessary gear, download maps or bring paper maps, and consider inviting a hiking buddy to go along with you. 

Travel back in time to Animas Forks 

The ghost town of Animas Forks is about 12 miles from Silverton and sits at a whopping 11,200 feet. The first structures were built in 1873 and only three years later, Animas Forks became a flourishing mining community. They even had a newspaper called the “Animas Forks Pioneer.” However, the brutal winters and the declining mining industry overpowered the community and the town was deserted by the 1920s. 

Visitors can now step back in time and explore unrestricted access to the buildings that still remain. Driving to Animas Forks from Silverton is only possible in the summer and it is recommended that you travel in a high-clearance 4x4 vehicle. 

To some people, happiness is enjoying an old-fashioned milkshake in a historic building. To others, it’s taking on a grueling hike alongside Mother Nature’s unpredictability. Whatever your style may be, the San Juan Mountains offer something for every type of adventurer. 

From stargazing to view-packed highways, it’s time to head south and enjoy the ride through this youthful and breathtaking mountain range. 

San Juan Soda Co. | Photo by Malena Larsen

Have a sweet treat at San Juan Soda Co. 

San Juan Soda Co. is a Lake City staple. The building dates back to the 1870s and originally served as the town’s pharmacy. Now, the old building is as lively as ever with a gift shop full of trinkets, an antique malt mixer and a bar, perfect for enjoying your sweet treat of choice. San Juan Soda Co. offers espresso drinks, soda, sundaes, shakes, malts and more. 

Explore Mesa Verde National Park 

This national park is not in the San Juan Mountain Range. However, they are neighbors, separated by canyons. If you’re already in the Durango area, this is well-worth the approximately hour-long trip southwest in the Four Corners region.

Mesa Verde National Park was established in June of 1906. The area was home to the ancestral Pueblo people for over 700 years. According to the park website, “Today, the park protects the rich cultural heritage of 27 Pueblos and Tribes and offers visitors a spectacular window into the past.” 

Remember, you will need a national park pass to enter. Additionally, the park is known for its cliff dwellings. If that’s something you’re interested in, be sure to make reservations for the dwellings you want to see in the park. 

Along with hiking and cliff dwellings, the park is ideal for stargazing. Mesa Verde National Park is an International Dark Sky Park, which means it has been certified for its commitment to preserving and protecting nighttime darkness. The park isn’t open overnight, so consider securing a campsite to experience the sky – just like the ancestral Pueblo people did so many years ago. 

Ramble campsite | Photo courtesy of Ramble at Mesa Verde National Park

Where to stay when visiting Mesa Verde National Park

• Morefield Campground. This spot offers 267 campsites in a canyon setting four miles inside the entrance of Mesa Verde. Like most established campsites in Colorado, reservations should be made well in advance of visiting.
• Far View Lodge. This is the only hotel that’s actually inside Mesa Verde. The rooms do not have televisions or air conditioners.
• Ramble at Mesa Verde National Park. Ramble is about a 14-minute drive to the park entrance. It offers bike rentals, entertainment and spacious campsites. 
• Ancient Cedars RV Park. You’ll find this spot directly across from the park entrance, surrounded by ancient cedar trees. 
• Bright Star Campground. This Cortez campground offers standard tent sites, RV hookups, and unique rentals like tipis, cabins and yurts. 

Malena Larsen is a writer and Minnesota-to-Colorado transplant. Her favorite subjects to write about are craft beer, outdoor adventures, and any topic where she gets to learn something new. In her free time, she enjoys trail running, taking photos of mountain goats, and checking out breweries with her pals.