“Big River” region offers plenty of adventures without the crowds

By Jay McKinney

Rio Grande County is the modern-day Wild West. There might not be cowboys dueling on dusty streets, but it’s geographically isolated from larger towns and full of wild adventure opportunities.

The county is located in the vast San Luis Valley and serves as the gateway to the San Juan Mountains, which are a crown jewel of the Colorado Rocky Mountains. In the warmer months, tourists visit the county to fish, hike, raft, hunt and partake in just about every other outdoor activity Colorado is known for. And when winter sets in, passionate skiers, boarders and snowshoers make the trek to nearby Wolf Creek Ski Area to experience some of the deepest snow in the state. Whether planning a single- or multi-day trip, there’s plenty of fun to fill up the day.

The county is named after the “big river” – Rio Grande in Spanish – that flows through the region and connects the three municipalities of Monte Vista, Del Norte and South Fork. Each town has its own charming sense of community and pride.

Of the three municipalities along the river, South Fork may be the smallest population wise, but it dubbed itself the base camp for adventure. It’s an ATV-friendly community that also offers anglers a 22-mile stretch of the river designated as Gold Medal Water. Anglers seeking trophy fish have their best shot at catching one in this section of the river. Joel Condren owns 8200 Mountain Sports in South Fork and argues that the remoteness of the area is what makes it special.

“One of the key components is that South Fork is geographically undesirable,” Condren jokes. “You really have to want to be in South Fork. If you left Denver or Albuquerque, there are a lot of other rivers in between those bigger cities than South Fork. You get that customer that’s willing to come down and stay overnight for one or more nights, and therefore we feel like we get a better class of recreational tourists.”

In a state that has so many great rivers to fish, only 168 miles have been designated as Gold Medal Water and this portion of the Rio Grande deserves to be on every Colorado angler’s bucket list. For those who are interested in a friendly fishing competition, consider joining the Par Fly Tournament hosted by 8200 Mountain Sports and San Luis Valley Trout Unlimited. From September 26-28, teams of two compete on the river, with one point awarded for every brown trout caught and two points for every rainbow trout. On day two, the teams tee off at Rio Grande Club and Resort for an 18-hole best-ball golf tournament. The points awarded for fishing are subtracted from the team’s golf score and the lowest score wins.

While the river’s activities are great, hiking, biking, and rock climbing are an integral part of the county’s recreational lure. There’s nearly 300 miles of trails spread throughout the area, offering a variety of terrain. Popular adventures include the Limekiln and Stone Quarry trail systems that lie between Monte Vista and Del Norte. The Stone Quarry trail is nearly 7.4 miles and rated intermediate to difficult with its tight twisting turns and purpose-built slick rock and natural surface. It’s a rugged landscape littered with massive boulder formations and the occasional panoramic valley view. Those who prefer to keep their heart rate down can explore more than 600 miles of multi-use trails throughout the county that are designated for ATVs and other vehicles. The trails range in elevation from 8,200 feet to 12,000 feet and are a great option for anyone looking to cover the most ground.

Rock climbing is another popular activity, with Penitente Canyon and Limekiln being primary destinations near Del Norte. There’s also the Big Meadows Reservoir area that is a 15-minute drive up Highway 160 from South Fork. It is great for climbers of all skill levels.

“As a guide service, Big Meadows is the place I prefer to take new climbers and kids, especially in the summer as it is quite a bit cooler than down in the valley,” says Curt Howell, owner of Narrow Ridge Outdoors. “In the fall and winter, the Manassa Dike is another fantastic venue made of basalt that offers routes up to 200 feet. In most venues there is something for everyone and plenty of routes to keep you coming back year after year.”

While Howell is proud to guide climbs in Rio Grande County, he says the alpine climbs found in the Sangre de Cristo range nearly an hour away offer the most solitude.

People looking for a unique experience should consider booking a South Fork Railbike tour. The railbikes board at the South Fork Railroad Station and seat two to four people on carts that have pedals and move along retired railroad tracks. Among the tour options are the Rio Grande Run that takes riders on a 6-mile round-trip tour along the river, and the Silver Bridge Run. The latter is more extensive at 12.5 miles round trip but worth every pedal as it takes riders through amazing scenery, including the Coller State Wildlife Area.

After a long day of exploring, consider stopping by the Pivot Public House in Monte Vista for a much-needed libation. The bar prides itself on being a hub for the community and offers beer, wine, signature cocktails and shareable plates that feature seasonal ingredients and showcase the local agriculture of the valley. Try the Ploughboy with Laws Whiskey House San Luis Valley Rye, or the Lavender Mint Collins with 1874 Distilling’s gin or vodka to get a taste of the valley.

“We are proud to showcase products grown and produced here in the San Luis Valley,” says Pivot’s co-owner Danielle DeForest. “It is all about the connection to the people and the land. Many of the folks we buy from return the favor by supporting us. We like to think of the Pivot Public House as a celebration of the Valley and the people who live here.”

Beer lovers will want to consider a visit to Three Barrel Brewing in Del Norte. The brewery has an amazing lineup of beer also brewed with the valley’s ingredients. Some of Three Barrels tasty core brews include the Burnt Toast English brown ale, Hop Trash IPA and the Trashy Blonde ale.

As the sun begins to set, consider heading north to visit the Frontier Drive Inn located in the town of Center that lies on the border of Rio Grande and Saguache counties. The renovated drive-in movie theater plays films Thursday through Saturday under the mesmerizing night sky. It’s a special venue to watch a movie and there are also luxury rooms that can be rented for an unforgettable getaway.

Jay McKinney grew up in Sedalia and graduated from the Metropolitan State University of Denver with a bachelor’s degree in communications. During his free time, he enjoys playing golf, shooting pool and hiking throughout Colorado and neighboring Utah.